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Description
camping wasserhahn handpumpe Wasserhahn für Camper, Van, KastenwagenFlieend Wasser im Van ist eine feine Sache. Aber hast du mal geschaut, was es an Armaturen fr den Camper zu kaufen gibt? Wer auf hssliches Zeug aus Plastik steht hat echt viel Auswahl So was wollte ich nie im Bus haben, also habe ich einen schlichten Wasserhahn selbst konstruiert. schwenkbar hhenverstellbar schick minimalistisch ohne Schnickschnak Du kannst den Wasserhahn mit Flansch einzeln, oder gleich im Komplettset mit Pumpe, Schlauch, Schalter
Fließend Wasser im Van ist eine feine Sache. Aber hast du mal geschaut, was es an Armaturen für den Camper zu kaufen gibt? Wer auf hässliches Zeug aus Plastik steht hat echt viel Auswahl...
So was wollte ich nie im Bus haben, also habe ich einen schlichten Wasserhahn selbst konstruiert.
- schwenkbar
- höhenverstellbar
- schick
- minimalistisch
- ohne Schnickschnak
Du kannst den Wasserhahn mit Flansch einzeln, oder gleich im Komplettset mit Pumpe, Schlauch, Schalter und Dimmer bestellen.
Edelstahl: Einfach, schick, einfach zu reinigen, Edelstahl eben.
Messing: Das ist Messing! Das bedeutet, es gibt einen natürlichen Alterungsprozess. Der Wasserhahn wird also mit der Zeit also anlaufen und dunkel werden. Fingerabdrücke und so weiter ergeben über die Zeit einen schönen, natürlichen Look. Wer das nicht möchte, sollte sich dieses Produkt nicht kaufen.
Aged Messing: Dieses Messign ist künstlich gealtert. Alle Komponenten wurden mehrere Tage in Essigdampf gehängt, um diesesn Prozess zu beschleunigen. Das Messing ist deutlich dunkler, bis leicht bräunlich. Wem das zu viel ist, der kann mittels feinem Schleiffließ, oder Politur seinen eigenen Alterungsgrad erzeugen.
Einbau und Installation
Der Einbau ist ganz simpel.
- Du bohrst dir mit einem 25er Forstberbohrer (gibt’s in jedem Baumarkt) ein Loch in deine Arbeitsplatte, setzt den Flansch ein und verschraubst ihn mit den beiden Holzschrauben.
- Falls du den Flansch nochmal extra zur Arbeitsplatte abdichten möchtest - dafür habe ich extra eine Nut ins Drehteil gemacht. Da kannst du ein bisschen Silikon, oder ähnliches mit aufbringen.
- Schlauch mittels Schnur in den Wasserhahn einziehen und gerade abschneiden. Beim edelstahlwasserhahn muss dieser nicht extra fixiert werden. Bei Messingwasserhähnen wird er mittels Sicherungsring fixiert.
- Wasserhahn von oben durch den Flansch führen. Das geht ein bisschen schwer, da es sehr präzise gefertigt wurde und der Wasserhahn an den O-Ringen hängt. Etwas Silikonöl, oder Kettenwachs hilft, damit es etwas leichter flutscht.
- Wasserpumpe anschließen und mit Edelstahlschelle sichern.
- Schalter und Dimmer verbauen und anschließen.
- Wasser marsch und Freude haben.
Sieh dir dazu auch gerne das Einbauvideo auf meinem Youtubekanal an.
Lieferumfang
Wasserhahn einzeln:
- 1x Wasserhahn
- 1x Flansch
- 2x Holzschrauben (in entsprechendem Material)
- 1x Schlauch 1,8m installiert
- 1x Sicherungsring (nur bei Messing)
Wasserhahn Set:
- 1x Wasserhahn
- 1x Flansch
- 2x Holzschrauben (in entsprechendem Material)
- 1x Schlauchschelle
- 1x Sicherungsring (nur bei Messing)
- 1x Schlauch 1,8m installiert
- 1x 12V Wasserpumpe
- 1x 12V Zugschalter
- 1x Dimmer
Technische Daten und Herstellerangabane
Wasserhahn, Flansch, Schrauben und Schelle sind aus rostfreiem Edelstahl V2A.
Schlauch:
PVC, Lebensmittel konform, 1,8m
Schalter:
- Zugschalter aus verchromten Messing
- 1 Schaltstufe
- für 12V
- max. 20A
- Länge: 75mm
- Gewindelänge 25mm
- Gewindedurchmesser 9,5mm
Dimmer:
- Material: Metall und Kunststoff
- Eingangsspannung: DC 12-24V
- Eingangsstrom: 0-30A
- Arbeitstemperatur: -20 ~ 60 °C
- Größe: 66 mm x 61 mm x 35 mm (einschließlich Knopf)
Pumpe:
- Spannung: 12 V
- Stromstärke: max. 2,2 A
- Fördermenge: max. 10 l/min
- Förderhöhe: max. 5,5 m
- Förderdruck: max. 0,55 bar
- Verbrauch: 15 - 24 W
- Ø / Höhe: max. 38 / 120 mm
- Anschlüsse: Braun (+) Blau (-)
- selbstansaugend
- trockenlaufsicher bis 30 min
- trinkwassergeeignet
- zur Förderung von sauberem Wasser bis max. 60°C
- Kabellänge 1 m
- für Schläuche mit 10 mm Innendurchmesser
Hersteller Wasserhahn nach GPSR
Camper&Go - Mirko Frank
Dammstr. 30
75382 Althengstett
www.camper-and-go.com
Hersteller Pumpe:
Comet-Pumpen Systemtechnik
Industriestr. 5
37308 Pfaffschwende
www.comet-pumpen.de
Shipping Notes
- Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
- Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
- Delivery to the USA:
- Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
- If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
- We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
- Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
- To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
- Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
4.5 ★★★★★
Based on 19 reviews
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 4
Nice monitor
I have had this for a little over 2 years. The only problem that has occurred a few times is that the PC display screen goes blank. I don't know the origin of this problem but it seems to be in the monitor. If I use the monitor controls, I can view the monitor settings and eventually the PC display resumes. It has happened only a few times over the 2 years. Also, the screen control buttons are a little difficult use because they are underneath the screen and cannot be seen. Just have to go by feel. Otherwise a very nice monitor.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 5, 2026
★★★★★ 5
Worth the hefty price tag
After considering OLED for a while and waiting for the price to drop, I finally decided to try this when on sale. I had very high expectations and was fully prepared to refund at the first sign of trouble.
Lets start with the cons in my experience.
1. After setting up the monitor and looking through the settings, trying to turn the RGB LEDs on worked... for the most part. The lights on the back worked fine, on the front there are two zones that are supposed to light up also, but only one of them worked. After doing some searching apparently a simple firmware update or downgrade can fix this, so it is not a hardware issue but a software one. I do not need LEDs on a monitor anyway, especially an OLED that has those nice true blacks, so I don't want anything on to distract my eye. I turned the LEDs off completely and never card to change firmware just to be able to turn them on again.
2. The first day I setup the monitor, tested it a bit, then went to bed. The following day I turned on the monitor and after a few hours of using it I closed all my programs and went to desktop (which is a true black single color background). To my surprise the LEDs were still on, the screen looked no different from my other non OLED screens. After digging through various settings and power cycling the monitor a few times I decided to contact support. I explained my issue and got transfer once or twice through Samsung support chat before finally getting through to help. The first thing that I was asked to do was unplug the power cord that runs from the adapter box to the monitor, not from the wall to the adapter box, and not power cycling using the button on the monitor. After waiting about a minute and plugging it back in the black were true black again and I felt like an idiot. The important takeaway here is that the box will run some power to the screen even if the screen is of, so if you need to power cycle make sure you unplug the screen. After doing the reset once my pixels have remained true black where they should and have not been an issue since.
Before we get to the pros is want to mention settings. There are quite a few settings of which most are helpful, just about anything you would want to change you can. The only problem is that with so many settings it can be hard to find what you're looking for sometimes. So far this is one of my only monitors to not change settings ever after setup, I have had ASUS and ACER monitors before that both will occasionally change a setting if a certain game launches or if the hdmi/vda/dp gets unplugged.
Finally we have the pros.
1. OLED monitor at a PC desktop form factor. This thing looks great, it is great to watch movies and videos on, and colorful and cinematic games look amazing, I have never seen a non OLED come anywhere close it is not even the same ballgame. I have had TN VA and IPS displays before and IMO all three of those look far more similar to each other than to this.
2. Responsiveness and Refresh rate. 240hz is incredibly solid for modern gaming, not as bug of jump from 60 to 144 or even 120, but still noticeable. Due to the OLED tech the overall screen response time is insane, it isn't as simple as the 1ms, 0.5ms or 0.1ms that you see advertised on these monitor pages, if you look into it in depth, this monitor has a response time that is about 2x faster then the next best non OLED gaming monitor, and that monitor is even 360hz! What does this meant though? Blur essentially does not exist on this monitor, comparing to 144hz, 165, and 60hz, when setting this monitors refresh rate to match, it is significantly clearer and less blurry. At 240hz even taking a still image with a high fps camera it is hard to detect or extremely minimal, where my VA 165hz displays at least 5 clearly visible ghosted images at once just with my phone camera.
To summarize, this monitor I expected to be good but not worth the price tag, but after quite some use it has completely blown me away and I am definitely keeping it. The only monitor jump that has been as noticeable as jumping from non OLED to OLED is the jump from 60-144hz.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 5, 2023
★★★★★ 3
Too compromised for the price
HDR:
Windows 10/11 report 1015nits peak brightness which is its real peak luminance.
Quantum HDR2000 is a fabricated specification unique to Samsung. In real content (games/movies) it is no where near capable of 2000nits and instead barely produces over 800nits peak brightness for 10% highlight. The 2000nit figure comes from best case scenario - 10% test slide used by calibrators and reviewers to measure luminance. The monitor detects such a scenario and temporarily boosts brightness so that they can publish impressive brightness figures. Yes this is essentially cheating and Samsung has been called out recently for the same "trick" on their TV's.
Samsung could have opted to have the monitors HDR performance certified by VESA but chose not to in favor of their own marketing favorable terminology. In reality the monitor is some where between VESA DisplayHDR600 and DisplayHDR1000 due to a combination of Samsung severely limiting brightness for the sake of preventing blooming alongside possibly preventing the backlight from being overdriven to manage thermals.
Scanlines:
The monitor displays horizontal scanlines at its maximum 4K 240hz refresh rate. This is a limitation of the display driver or scaler and has been present on all 1440p+ 240hz Samsung monitors dating back to the original G7. This is not a software/firmware issue as the original G7 and Neo G9 still suffer from it to this day after over a dozen firmware updates between the two.
Dropping down to 120hz rids you of scanlines but then you have to ask, why did I buy a 240hz display? A compromise is using a custom resolution/refresh rate of 165hz but then you have to ask yourself, why didn't I save $200 and purchase the Neo G7 instead? Anything above 165hz and the scanlines get very noticeable.
Anti Reflective Coating:
The Neo G8 uses a completely different AR coating compared to the Neo G7. Its extremely thick/hazy and has a sparkly sheen to it and as a result is a huge detriment to clarity.
HDMI 2.1:
As of right now the monitors HDMI 2.1 ports are either broken due to a firmware mishap or not full bandwidth HDMI 2.1 ports. 4K 120hz is the max possible refresh rate using an HDMI 2.1 capable GPU and even that can be finicky at times. DSC should make 4K 240hz possible just like the Displayport 1.4 port but its just not working correctly at the moment.
Curve:
The curve is non uniform and extremely aggressive at the center while flattening at the sides. It results in a very odd almost crease like presentation dead center and takes quite a bit of adjustment. I understand the 1000R curve is done to compensate for the VA panels poor viewing angles but its just too much for desktop/productivity and warps everything you're looking at. 1800R or 1500R max would be ideal although I wish Samsung would ditch this obsession with curves and just give us flat panels.
Neo G7 vs Neo G8:
So why buy the Neo G8? Well there really is no reason unless you enjoy horizontal scanlines at 240hz. The Neo G7 has the same HDR brightness (1015nits reported to Windows), gets you 165hz scanline free without having to fiddle with custom resolutions, uses a more traditional matte anti glare coating and as of writing this review appears to have the same HDMI 2.1 limitation.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 30, 2022
★★★★★ 5
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW! And why people have issues with this Monitor, It's their fault.
Got mine today! Great packaging, no dead pixels! LOOKS AWESOME!
This is what you need to know before buying this Monitor! Please read SO YOU KNOW! It will also help you with any other monitor, video card, or cables.
This is a 4K 240Hz Monitor! There are 3 different versions of this Monitor in the user manual, and Samsung has never been great on literature to know what you need to push this monitor to its full potential. I read the 4-star reviews for this Monitor first. In there, I read about a guy who was getting tearing and replaced the DP (Display Port) cable to a 16K cable. I want to explain this to educate people and help.
The base refresh rate for any resolution is 60Hz, so let's do the math backwards to fully understand. 16K at 60Hz = 8K at 120Hz = 4K at 240Hz = 2K at 480Hz
Since not only Samsung, but every corporation tries to save money, the other 2 monitors in the user's guide doesn't require a 16K cable. Since I'm sure they all have the same packaging, there's no reason to believe the supplied DP (Display Port) cable is 16K. In Fact, I can see nothing on the cable that says so. However, I spent $6 for a 10' 16k cable delivered with the Monitor.
This is the most important thing to know once you have your 16K DP (Display Port) cable. To push 16K your device (Video Card) has to have DP (Display Port) 2.1
AMD was on top of the ball on this and uses DP (Display Port) 2.1 for its RX 7000 series and up. I use a RX 7900XTX, so I'm covered. Nvidia used DP (Display Port) 1.4 on their RTX 4000 series cards to save money and charge you way too much! Nvidia implemented DP 2.1 on their RTX 5000 series cards. I don't know for INTEL cards; I would search the specs. I've read reviews from RTX 4000 people, and I can only assume that they don't understand that Nvidia DLSS has to be a factor, they aren't aware that their video cards can't push a true 4K at 240Hz.
The last thing to add is the Dimensions that Samsung Provides! Yes, its 27" tall! But it's a telescopic stand, I only have 20.5" clearance, and it fits nice. I think it could go down to 19".
Power Color Hellhound RX 7900 XTX
AMD 9950 X3D
Asus Rog Strix X870E-E Gaming Wi-Fi
32GB G.Skill Royal Neo at 8000Mhz
Nothing else is important for this post
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Reviewed in the United States on July 15, 2025
★★★★★ 5
Music and video editing. This thing works.
Size: 49-1, Size: 49-1
49" curved. It's a good monitor. Confirmed resolution is 5K. I had never heard of ZZA before but the reviews were good and the price was decent. Honestly, I did not expect too much. Well, this monitor is well packaged, easy to handle and use, built nicely. The screen has a matte low-reflection surface and looks smooth. Tested with Ableton, DaVinci, WOW, Zoom, and a few others. Instantly improved my workflow by displaying longer timelines in music and video. Games like WOW are very immersive, but it takes a few hours to get used to. Once you get into it, it might be had to go back to a normal flatscreen. Overall, it's worth the money. ZZA is evidently taking this very seriously with a decent design and a solid feel. Would recommend.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2026